Regatta, Friends, and Frivolity

I am the biggest whiner when it’s time to leave a happy anchorage, especially one that offers crystal clear, still waters and fantastic scuba diving. Leaving Conception Island ordinarily would have had me pouting, but we had the best reason for departing – our friend, Ashley, chose to celebrate her 30th birthday with us on Pura Vida,

All birthday cakes should be of the rum variety.
All birthday cakes should be of the rum variety.

and was arriving in Georgetown in only a couple of days.  The trip from Conception Island to Georgetown was almost uneventful. We were just a few dozen miles from the entrance to Georgetown’s Elizabeth Harbor when another reminder of the perils of the sea surfaced. In beautiful weather, perfect winds, and calm seas, we almost ran into the remnants of a fishing boat, barely visible above the ocean surface.

It doesn't look like much, but this hunk of junk could do major damage.
It doesn’t look like much, but this hunk of junk could do major damage.

Cruisers fear running into all kinds of things: lost cargo containers, sleeping whales, logs, other boats, etc. Even a plastic bag is reason for worry as it can get sucked into your engine through the seawater intake. This was our closest call so far and, luckily, it was in the middle of a sunny day so we could avoid it.

Ashley’s visit was too short – only three and a half days, but we packed a lot of fun into that time. She arrived on her birthday to a ship dressed in her honor,

"I have my ship, and all her flags are a-flyin"
“I have my ship, and all her flags are a-flyin”

and the celebratory cocktails started flowing. We made sure she had time to relax, but in between those moments we enjoyed lots of snorkeling, a birthday bonfire with friends from s/v Sea Ya and s/v Last Tango, a fun-filled splash in a very active bubbly pool,

My all-time favorite pic from the bubbly pool. Captured the moment right before the soaking!
My all-time favorite pic from the bubbly pool. Captured the moment right before the soaking!

and a long, arduous hike up to the beacon at Monument Beach. Lucky for all of us old folks (Ashley not included) we discovered a much shorter path back down.

We made it to the top!
We made it to the top!
The long hike was worth it for the spectacular view.
The long hike was worth it for the spectacular view.
My kind of hot tub!
My kind of hot tub!
Enjoying a lower-than-normal view of the sunset.
Enjoying a lower-than-normal view of the sunset.
This cutie became our instant friend as soon as we said hello. His parents runs the Red Boone cafe in Georgetown.
This cutie became our instant friend as soon as we said hello. His parents run the Red Boone cafe in Georgetown.

Too soon, it was time to say goodbye to our dear friend, but we look forward to next time when her visit will last a bit longer.

Other guests would be arriving soon, so we took advantage of the days in between to stock up on boat parts, and make a couple of simple repairs. Things break down left and right, and resupplying replacement parts can be a bit of a challenge. We were happy to find a real hardware store in Georgetown that had all the o-rings, gaskets, adhesives, and fishing tackle we were out of. We even splurged and bought respectable foulies.

No more "dinghy butt" for me!
No more “dinghy butt” for me!

Now, perhaps, dinghy rides in rough seas will not result in us soaking in saltwater from head to toe. Our work was completed with plenty of time to spare before our friends’ arrival, so we followed the recommendation of Phillip & Teresa and Jesse & Stacey to go 30 miles north and check out Lee Stocking Island. On our 19th wedding anniversary we upped anchor, and had a perfect sail the whole way. We even caught two Mahi-Mahi, resulting in 15 pounds of fillets! Who needs diamonds or silver? Nineteen is the “fish” anniversary, right?

We're going to need a bigger grill.
We’re going to need a bigger grill.

We dropped the hook at Lee Stocking, just outside of what appeared to be some kind of resort, complete with little screened-porch bungalows, two-story condos, and a scuba shack.

From the water it looks inviting, like you'll walk ashore and find bars and restaurants. Maybe someday.
From the water it looks inviting, like you’ll walk ashore and find bars and restaurants. Maybe someday.

Land exploration revealed what was, in fact, an abandoned marine research facility. This place was once bustling with activity, but is now an eerie ghost town. We were able to explore every unlocked building – barracks, laboratories, offices, airfield facilities, maintenance shops, homes – full of furniture; machinery; lab equipment; files; tools; food and drink, all left as-is when the students and scientists evacuated.

Abandoned decompression chamber. I hope they never needed it!
Abandoned decompression chamber. I hope they never needed it!
Even the keys were abandoned.
Even the keys were abandoned.
My guess is this is where the people-fish hybrids were made.
My guess is this is where the people-fish hybrids were made.

Apparently, the Perry Institute for Marine Science lost its government funding years ago, and the residents just walked away, leaving lots of supplies that have since been scavenged.

We enjoyed exploring the “ruins” and diving for conch, but before long it was again time to head out. Friends, Michele and Lisa, were due to arrive in a couple of days, so back to Georgetown it was.

Lisa and Michele took to island life quickly.
Lisa and Michele took to island life quickly.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record (look it up, kids) we, again, snorkeled, hiked, soaked in the bubbly pool, and enjoyed a lot of catching up over cocktails. Doing the same-old-things never gets boring when you’re doing them with great friends.

Michele held on like a pro!
Michele held on like a pro!
Lisa's turn! (This just never gets old!)
Lisa’s turn! (This just never gets old!)
Michele pounding dinner - fresh caught conch.
Michele pounding dinner – fresh caught conch.
Close-up view of an enormous starfish
Close-up view of an enormous starfish
John-Michael had no idea we were giving him boobs.
John-Michael had no idea we were giving him boobs until it was too late.
Hanging out with our new friend at flip-flop beach
Hanging out with our new friend at flip-flop beach

The highlight of the week, and what made it much different from the other weeks we’d spent in Georgetown, was the National Family Island Regatta.

Enjoying the races from the deck of a docked ferry.
Enjoying the races from the deck of a docked ferry.

Boats and sailors come from all over the country to compete, and the town was packed with Bahamians and cruisers enjoying the races, festivities, and all of the delicious food.

We were treated to a parade with marching bands. This one was from one of the local schools. I felt like I was back home in New Orleans!
We were treated to a parade with marching bands. This one was from one of the local schools. I felt like I was back home in New Orleans!
Just after I queried, out loud, if the kids continue playing after they’re grown, The Royal Bahamian Police Force band marched by. Now I wonder if they form funky brass bands in their spare time.
This reminded me so much of Jazz Fest, which was going on at the same time in NOLA. Big crowds, music, and lots of food booths.
This reminded me so much of Jazz Fest, which was going on at the same time in NOLA. Big crowds, music, and lots of food booths.

Another break from monotony came in the form of a car and guesthouse. Michele and Lisa had rented both, and allowed us to reap the benefits of being chauffeured all over the island. Michele has mad driving-on-the-wrong-side of-the-road-from-the-wrong-side-of-the-car skills.

The beach itself was one of the prettiest I've seen.
This beach was one of the prettiest I’ve seen.
At Tropic of Cancer Beach. The Tropic of Cancer is the northernmost point at which the sun is directly overhead at noon. It's that way from here to the equator, and on south to the Tropic of Capricorn.
The Tropic of Cancer is the northernmost point at which the sun is directly overhead at noon. It’s that way from here to the equator, and on south to the Tropic of Capricorn.
I never get tired of exploring beautiful old plantation ruins.
I never get tired of exploring beautiful old plantation ruins.
More ruins
More ruins
What to do when you can't find a chair.
What to do when you can’t find a chair.
This marker made it easier for ships to find their way to the beach to load up with salt from the nearby salt pond.
This marker made it easier for ships to find their way to the beach to load up with salt from the nearby salt pond.
I was craving a margarita after reading this.
I was craving a margarita after reading this.
Of course, the salt must be protected!
Of course, the salt must be protected!

After our land tour, we were treated to a night on land in their guesthouse, complete with a real shower, and washer/dryer. It also boasted a spectacular view of the harbor from high atop a hill. It was quite a treat!

After saying goodbye to our friends, it was time to say goodbye to Georgetown, once and for all. A frontal system moved in, bringing high winds and stormy weather, but when it passed there was nothing keeping us from our next adventure – the remote cays of the Jumentos and Ragged Islands.

Jumentos & Raggeds map
Our next destination!

We raised anchor at dawn on a beautiful calm day. This time, there was no whining.

6 comments:

  1. Hey, great following you. We’re in Abacos right now, on Merlinsquest.com. We’re not happy with our solar panels/wind gen output either, wanted to know where you went in Key Largo and if you’re happy with results. Thanks. Maryliz and Kevin

    1. Hi Kevin. We hauled out for a bottom job at Key Largo Harbor Marina. Great people, highly recommend them. We did our own solar panel installations while they were painting the bottom, so we did not use them for the electrical stuff.

  2. Fantastic blog post and beautiful photos of beautiful people. I love the J.M. Sand sculpture boobs and all, cute. Oh I bet that was fun fun fun. You both are living a dream and I cant wait until we reconnect. Thanks for the great blog post.
    Hayden

  3. Hi, your blog looked amazing.
    My aim is to cross every imaginary line a d photograph it’s marker. Was that gorgeous Arkwright with the crab on top on Tropic of Cancer beach at little exuma???
    Would love to know exactly where that is. Thanks!!!

      1. Thank you!!!! I meant to write “marker with the crab”, sorry, auto correct!
        Really appreciate the reply.
        Enjoy your travels!!!

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