Island on Fire

Rendezvous Bay AnchorageRendezvous Bay Anchorage
At anchor with s/v Jennie B and s/v GriffinAt anchor with s/v Jennie B and s/v Griffin
Pura Vida at sunsetPura Vida at sunset

The juxtaposition of verdant mountains against the remnants of deadly, barren pyroclastic flows is striking when you tour Montserrat by land or see it from the air. As a visitor, it’s impossible to talk about this beautiful island without discussing the devastation and ongoing threat caused by the Soufrière Hills volcano. Montserrat is an active furnace, from the 1997 eruption that burned and buried the capital of Plymouth to the ongoing, smaller volcanic releases that continue to threaten the southern half of the island.

Photo Credit: http://www.latinamericanstudies.orgPhoto Credit: http://www.latinamericanstudies.org
Photo Credit: NBC NewsPhoto Credit: NBC News
Photo Credit: Shoe UnitedPhoto Credit: Shoe United

Due to safety concerns, more than half the island is an exclusion zone where travel is restricted or not permitted at all. Entering parts of the exclusion zone is occasionally allowed, though only by a license from the Royal Montserrat Police Force. Fortunately, we were able to go inside.

Ruins of PlymouthRuins of Plymouth
Some vegetation growing backSome vegetation growing back
Most buildings were buried up to their roofs.Most buildings were buried up to their roofs.
Huge fissures in the earth are still visible.Huge fissures in the earth are still visible.
Soufrière Hills VolcanoSoufrière Hills Volcano
The volcano is constantly venting. (That's not fog on the hills.)The volcano is constantly venting. (That's not fog on the hills.)
The earth is frequently shifting in Montserrat.The earth is frequently shifting in Montserrat.
This beach did not exist before the 1997 eruption. In fact, the ash flow added a mile to the island's square footageThis beach did not exist before the 1997 eruption. In fact, the ash flow added a mile to the island's square footage
Magical streamMagical stream
It's on a sign, so it must be trueIt's on a sign, so it must be true
We visited a botanical garden.We visited a botanical garden.

In addition to the fascinating tour of the exclusion zone, our guide drove us to see most of the unaffected parts of the island. We visited the Montserrat Volcano Observatory, drank from a roadside stream purported to have the magical power to make you return to the island, and sampled the national dish: goat water. It’s better than it sounds. It’s a thick, dark goat stew bursting with flavors and aromas of local spices.

Beach at Little BayBeach at Little Bay
Seaside eateries in Little BaySeaside eateries in Little Bay

We spent the rest of our brief time in Montserrat relaxing. We played on the beach, flew drones with our friends on s/v Jennie B, and sampled a few of the beachfront eateries and watering holes until the weather calmed enough for our passage to Guadeloupe. We were delighted that we did not skip this island like we did last year. Many cruisers do not visit Montserrat because it’s a bit out of the way and lacks cruiser amenities like fuel, water, and easily accessible stores; but if you’re in the area, we highly recommend adding it to your itinerary.­­

Learning new tricks with Mavic Pro droneLearning new tricks with Mavic Pro drone
Hey, drone, look at me!Hey, drone, look at me!
Boys and their toysBoys and their toys

2 comments:

  1. Holy cow! I didn’t know anything about this place–it sounds incredible!! Thank you for sharing.

    1. We did not either until we got to the Eastern Caribbean. There’s so much here to “discover” that we feel we have only seen a tiny bit.

Leave a Reply to John-Michael Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *